I knew I would need to keep myself well watered in order to make my few days in Cornwall bearable. So after getting off the train at Par I headed immediately into the Royal Inn for a pint of Dirty Tackle (Wychwood) to steel myself for the days ahead. And then I had another.
The pub itself seemed to have only just realised that it could be better and was showing signs of getting there. I hope indeed that it was improving – it had some way to go – and wasn’t stuck thusly.
The following day J and I went back to Par station for to explore the pubs of the Atlantic Coast Line to Newquay. Asking at the ticket office for a rover we were told that no such ticket existed. And, the fella added, why on earth would you want one? There is nothing to see or do at any of the intermediate stations.
The Great Western in Newquay would have been a dead loss were it not for the views which made the dreadful food and the uninspiring beer worth tolerating.
A quick ice-cream break and it was back on the train to Bugle and the The Bugle Inn. Which wasn’t a terrible place but I would hardly be rushing back.
Back then towards Newquay and alighting at St Columb Road where The Queen and Railway was shut. I ought to have realised – the opening hours were printed clearly on the useful leaflet produced by the Devon and Cornwall Rail Partnership – but I failed to notice. There was absolutely nothing to do in St Columb Road and the weather was turning chilly. The next pub needed to be a cracker to save the day.
It was. The King’s Arms in Luxulyan is splendid. Friendly staff and locals – even if a conversation about J’s trip to the toilet as I ordered the drinks wasn’t strictly necessary – and wonderful beer. The food was even better. I had rabbit casserole to die for. This easily slotted in to the list of my seven favourite pubs. You should go there. It is brilliant.
There were other pubs during the rest of the time in Cornwall – but, sadly, no stations. I drank and I survived.